US2112884A - Manufacture of shoes - Google Patents

Description

April 5, l938.- w. l. GILLETTE ET AL 2,112,884

MANUFACTURE oF sHoEs Filed Nov. 5, 1935 v2 Sheets-Sheet 2 l @a WM@ 'w 'NV Nr 5 Patented Apr. 1938 UNITED STATES MANUFAGT'UREv 0F SHOES -lN'Valter I. Gillette and Albert W. Dusseault, lHav-v assignors to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application November 5,

6 Claims.

'I'his invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of shoes and is herein illustrated with particular reference to its application to the manufacture of so-called cross-strap sandals.

A cross-strap sandal as ordinarily constructed comprises a sole and a plurality of cross-straps, vthe latter being secured at their opposite ends to the sole and being adapted to extend over portions of the foot so as toretain the sandal 10 on the foot. As a sandal of this type is worn the,

movements of the foot impose more or less severe strains upon the localities where the ends of the straps are secured to the soleand, although various expedients have been adopted for holding the strap ends in place, the holding means is quite likely to give way at those points which are sub jected to the greatest strains. v

Objects of the present invention are to overcome the above-mentioned inherent weakness in the construction of vstrap sandals and to provide other improvements in the manufacture of shoes and sandals.

With the above objects in view, the invention in one aspect provides a method of making sandals which, as herein exemplified, involves the passing of successive portions of acontinuous strip of cross-strap material in crosswise directions above and beneath a sole from one lateral edge portion of the sole to the other, therebyV providing an integrally connected series of crossstrap loops for holding the sole on a foot. This method may advantageously be practiced by passing or winding a continuous strip several times over a sole member, for-example an insole, on a last, the insole preferably having formed therein a series of marginal openings for receiving the strip as itis being applied and thus determining the locations of the various turns yor, loops of the strip which are to take the place of the separate cross-straps of a sandal of the usual construction. As illustrated herein' a single strip maybe employed to provide a series. of integrally connected cross-strap loops in the forepart of ai sandal while another strip may be employed to constitute an integrally connected series of loops or straps in the heel portion of the sandal, or, if desired, the loops or strips inl both the foreparts and heel portions of the sandal may be formed as integral portions of a single strip. 'Advantageously the ends of the one or more strips employed in the construction of the cross-strap loops will be located at points where the loop structure will be subjected to the least strain, the arrangement at all events being such that the ends of the strip will not be located in the vicinity of the ball line y1935, serial No. 48,346

(Cl. Sii-11.5)

or in thevvicinity of the heel breast line where 'the strains are the greatest. ,As illustrated, the

` hereinafter described and specically pointed out in the claims.

'I'he invention will be explained with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a perspective view of an insole prepared for use in making a strap sandal;

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary perspective view of an insole showing it prepared in a different way, and illustrating a modication of the manner of preparing it for use in making a sandal;

Fig. 3 is a fragmentary perspective view of` an insole, illustrating a further modication in the manner of preparing it for use in making a sandal;

Fig. 4 is a perspective view of a sandal in course 'of construction;

Fig. 5 is a perspective view of a completed sandal; Y

Fig. 6 is a cross-sectional View taken substantially along the line VI-VI of Fig. 4;

Fig. l is a fragmentary cross-sectional view of a sandal in which' the outsole is attached by means lof Goodyear stitching;

Fig. 8 is a similar cross-sectional view of a sandal in which the outsole is attached by means of through-and-through stitching; and

Figs. 9 and 10 are perspective views of sandals of modified construction.

In. practicing our improved method of making sandals, as exemplied in Figs. 1, 4, 5 and 6, an insole I4 is cut tov a desired marginal contour, for example, by means of a clicking die and, in order to prepare theinsole to receive the cross-straps, a plurality of elongated marginal openings or slots I6 (Fig. 1) are provided in its forepart and a plurality of similar marginal openings or slots I8 are provided in the heel portion of the insole. The slots I6 and I8 may be formed in any suitvable manner, for example, by means of punches carried by the clicking die. As indicated at 2li in Fig. 4, the marginal portion of its outer surface is roughed to prepare it for the cement attachment of an outsole thereto.v The slotted insole I4 is temporarily secured to the bottom of a last 22, as by means of tacks, one of which is shown at 24. In making the sandal shown in Figs. 4 55 through the slot i6c.

4tensioned again over the upper portion of the |6a,' thenceacross the bottom of the insole, and

through the slot I6b. looped at 64 over that portion of the strip which and 5, the cross-straps at the forepart are formed as portions of a single continuous strip or ribbon 26 of suitable cross-strap material while the cross-strapping in the heel portion of the sandal is formed from another continuous strip 26 of the same material as the strip 26. While each of the strips 26 and 2,6 is shown as being in the form of a ribbon, it need not' be of such shape and might, for example, .be round in cross-section, in which case round holes would belformed in the insoles for receiving the strips.

In applying the strip 26, as exemplified in Figs.

4 and 5, one end of the strip is temporarily secured to thebottom or outersurface of the insole I6 substantially in the central portion of its forepart by any convenient means, such as the tack 36. 'The strip 26 is then threaded through the 'adjacentl slot- |641 in the insole, tensioned over the upper portion of the last 22, passed through the slot i6b and across the bottom of the insole in the vicinity Aoi! the ball line and threaded Thence the strip 26 is last, after which it is passed through the slot |6d, across the bottom of the insole, through slot I6e, and again over the last. The strip 26 thence through the slot I6f, across the bottom 'of the insole, through slot |60, over the last,

through slot i671, and thence part way across the insolef to the vpoint where its trailing end is temporarily secured to the insole by the tack 32. 'I'he strip 26-has thus been passed four times over the last, thereby providing four cross-strap loops 66 which vary in length as determined by the shape of the last and which are formed as integral portions of a single continuous stripr instead of being formedas separate straps each independently secured at its opposite ends to the sole of the sandal as in the usual prior-art construction. Those portions 66 of the strip 26 which extend across the bottom of the insole connect the cross-strap portions or loops 66 in such a manner that the latter cannot be pulled loose from the insole, there being no ends save only those at the beginning -and ending of the strip.

At the heel end of the sandal the manner of application of the strip '26 may diner from that of the strip 26 at' the forepart, first, in` that the opposite ends of the strip 26, instead'of being located beneath-the insole, are located above the-sole to serve as ankle straps for the sandal. In applying the strip 26'o'ne end portion 60, after having been first temporarily secured by means of a tack 62 to the outer side of the heel portionof the last, is passed rearwardly around the heel end of the last and through the slot Thence the strip 26 is is held tothe aide of the last by the tack az,

thence downwardly through slot/fle; across the bottom of the insole and upwardlyhrough slot I6d. Thence the strip islaid in the form of a a 'loop 66 close to the-inner side of .the last, and thereafter it is passed downwardlyl throughslot |6e, acro the'bottom of the insole,through slot I6faround theheel end ofthe last, and

iinally it is .passed through the loop 66, and

around thecone of the last'to a point where itstrailingend 66 is adapted by meansjof a series of holes 66 to be engaged by a buckle 62' which is secured to the opposite end portionj 66 of the strip and thus .to cooperate with the pi`' tion 66 toeonstitute an ankle strap. -1 Y Thus, the in the heel portion MacKenzie.

respectively, serve to hold the cross-strapping securely in place in the vicinities of the ball line and the heel breast line where the cross-strapping is subjected to the greatest strains when the sandal is on the foot. The strips 26 and 26 having been applied as above described, the usual shank stiiener 68 is laid upon the insole, the opposite end portions .of the stiffener being inserted beneath the crossvagainst accidental displacement prior to the completion of the shoe and the' ends of the stiener are prevented from rubbing against the outsole in a manner to cause squeaking when the shoe is being worn. A coating of cement, conf ventionally indicated at 60, is next applied to the roughened marginal portion of the insole. If, as in the present instance, the outsole is to be cement-attached to the insole, pyroxylin cement may be used and the latter may conveniently be applied by means of a brush, as indicated at 62. More advantageously,`however, the cement may be applied by means of a shoe bottom cementing machine, such for example as that dis- Yclosed ina copending application for United States Letters Patent, Serial No. 754,648, led November 24, 1934, in the name of W. L.

The cement as applied to the insole will cover the opposite end portions of the cross-stretches of the strips 26 and 26 which extend across the bottom of the insole and will fill in the slots around those portions of the strips which extend therethrough, as indicated at 66 inKFig. 7, and thus, after the cement has become set,\the portions of the strips which are located in the vicinity of 'the slots will be attac'hed to Athe insole and securely held in place. The tacks which secure the insole to the last and the tacks 66 and 62 which temporarily secured inplace the opposite endsof the strip 26 are re-I moved before theV outsole is applied.

The outsole 66 is prepared for cement attach- .ment to the insole in the usual way by roughing its marginal portion and applying cement thereto. Advantagecusly, the roughened margins of a quantity of outsoles may be precemented and as each outsole is to be usedthe dried cement thereon may be activated by means of a solvent which m'ay be applied by means of a brush or more. advantageously by means of a solvent applying machine, such forexample` as that disclosed in a copending application for United States Letters' Patent, Serial No.` 692,307, illed October 5, 1933, in the name'of C.,A. Newhall,

nowi Patent Number 2,042,479, granted June 2,

' ment of the outsole it may be found desirable to apply a suitable filler to the forepart of the insole, as indicated by dotted lines at 66 in Fig. 4. v

.After the outsole has been attached the last is removed.; a heel 66 is attached and a suitable 75 l-at the heel portion of thelast. The stripl sock lining 'I0 is'applied to the upper surface oi the insole.

In addition to being attached by means of cement the outsole 65 may also be secured to the insole by means of Goodyear stitching, as indicated at 12 in Fig, '1.l Ordinarily, however, when such stitching is to be used, no pyroxylin cement will be employed between the soles, but the outsole will be temporarily held in place by means oi' rubber cement or latex, care being taken to see that the rubber cement covers at least the opposite end portions of the cross-stretches oi the straps 26 and 28 which extend across the insole so as to assist in holding these straps in place. Also, as indicated in Fig. 8, the outsole may be attached to the insole by means of through-andthrough stitches 13 such, for example, as lock stitches or chain stitches. l

The insole may be provided with open notches I1 (Fig. 2) in its edge portions for receiving the cross-straps instead of closed openings such as the slots I6 already described. 'Ihe provision of open notches, such as the notches I1, is advantageous in that it enablesthe cross-stripping to be wound around lthe last and insole without having to be threaded through openingsin the insole. v

Alternatively, as illustrated in Fig. 8, the crossstraps may merely be passed over the edge of the insole, in which case no notches, slots or other openings need be provided. In cases where no openings of any sort are provided for receiving the cross-stripping suitable marks may be made, if desired, upon the insole, as indicated at I9 in Fig. 3, to inchcate the points where the stripping should cross the edges of the in-l sole in order to insure proper location of the the cross-straps which extend across one an-v other above the insole may be secured together, either iixedly by means of rivets, stitches orl the like, as indicated at 14 in Fig. 5, or adiustably as, for example, by means of slide buckles, as indicated at 16 in the forepart of the sandal.

The cbilds sandals shown in Figs. 9 and 10 embody modications of the above-described arrangement of cross-strapping, Fig. 9 showing the opposite end portions of the strip which constitutes the cross-strapping located between the soles of the sandal. In the construction shown in Fig. 9, in order to provide for removably securing the heel portion of the sandal on the foot, a Vseparate ankle strap is provided in the form of a exible lacing 'I8 which, as shown, is tied at 'i9 to one or' the side loops of the heel strapping and is adapted to be tied to the opposite side loopof the heel strapping after the sandal has been placed upon the foot.

In the construction shown in Fig. 10 a single continuous strip constitutes the cross-strapping forepart strap82, thence across the bottomrofv the shank portion of the insole at 84, after which it is manipulated to provide the cross-strapping" thence extends forwardly across the bottom of the shank portion of the last at 88, crossing the portion 84, and thence the-strip is manipulated to provide the forepart cross-straps 90 and 92, the trailing end of the strip being secured at 94 to the bottom of the insole.

In Figs. 9 and 10 the outsole is indicated at 650 and the sock lining at 100. As already indicement and such attachment of the outsole is indicated at 120.

In applying the strip which isto constitute theI cross-straps it is not essentialthat the insole be placed on a last and the strip wound around the insole and last as hereinbefore described, inasmuch as satisfactory results may be obtained by winding the strip or strips around an insole off the last so as to provide the desired cross-strap structure (threading the strip'or strips through the openings, if any, in the insole), and thereafter inserting the lastl so that it will be positioned relatively to the cross-strap structure as indicatedin Fig. 4, thereby conforming the crossstraps to the contour of the last. Preferably the opposite ends of the strip or` strips would not be secured in place until after the last had been inserted thereby enabling the strip or strips to slip more or less through the openings in the insoleso that the various cross-strap loops may the more readily adjust themselves or be adjusted by the operator into conformity with the shape of the last. Finally the strip ends will be pulled tight andy secured in place so as to maintain the adjustment of the straps.

Having described our invention, what we claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

l. That improvement in methods of `making sandals which consists in providing a, series of open notches in the opposite edges of a sole, and winding a continuous strip of cross-strap material crosswse around the sole while entering portions of the strip laterally into said notches to locate the successive portions of the strip so as to provide a series of cross-strap loops in desired 'locations at one side of the sole connected by a series of cross-stretches at the opposite side of the sole.

2. A sandal comprising an insole having a plu.-

rality of open notches in its opposite lateral edges, a continuous strip wound crosswse around the insole and extending4 through said notches, the portions of said strip at the upper -side oi the insoiefbeing adapted to serve as cross-straps for holdingv the sandal on a foot, and an outsole xedly secured to the-insole and to the portions of said strip at the lower side of the insole.

3. ifiv cross-strap sandal comprising an insole, an outsole, a heel, forepart cross-straps connected by strips formed integrally therewith and extending crosswise between the soles, one of said strips being `located in the vicinity of'the ball line, cross-strapping at the heel of the sandal including strips extending crosswse beneath the insole, one of said strips being located in the vicinity of the heel breast line, and a shank stiffener located between the soies and having one end portion interposed between said ball line strip and the insole and the other end portion interposed between said heel breast line strip and the insole.

. v4. That improvement in methods o! making sandals which consists in winding a continuous strip of cross-strap material a plurality or times around an insole thereby providing a plurality ot cross-strap loops at the upper side of the sole and a series of cross-stretches integrally connesting said loops at the lower side of the sole,

inserting a last between said loops and the insole and conforming the loops to the contour of the last, securing the ends oi said strip' in place by temporary fastenings, cementing said strip to the insole, removing said fastenings, and attaching an outsole.

5. That improvement in methods of making vsandals which consists in providing la'series of open notches in the opposite edges of an insole, placing the insole upon a last, winding a continuous strip o1' cross-strap material crosswise around the insole -and the last while entering portions of the strip laterally into said notches to locate successive portions of the strip so as to provide a series of cross-strap loops in desired locations at one side, of the insole connected by a series of cross-stretches at the opposite side of the insole, applying a stripe of cement to sandals which consists in providing a series of open notches in the opposite edges of an insole,

placing the insole upon a last, winding a continuous strip of cross-strap material vcrosswise around the insole and the last while entering portions oi' the strip laterally into said notches to locate successive portions of the strip so as to provide a series oi' cross-strap loops in desired locations at one side ot the sole connected by a series o! cross-stretches at the opposite side of the sole, and attaching an outsole by cementing it to the insole and to said cross-stretches o! said strip.

A WALTER I. GIILETI'E.

ALBERT W. DUSSEAULT.

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